Razor Anatomy
Point:
There are 6 different points, and then custom points, which can be endless. The six main points are:
Round – This point is perfect for beginners. It is the most user friendly of the points.
Spanish – This point certainly adds a special flair to the razor and allows you to select specific hairs to be cut. You can also use this point while edging a beard or mustache.
Square – This point is fairly traditional, it allows you to edge well, and it gives the razor a nice aesthetic look.
French – This point is a different take on the round point, it levels out the toe of the razor so that you are able to maneuver it around your face, while still using the round edge of the point to balance off of.
Spike – This point is perfect for those that are looking for a more bada** looking razor. It allows the toe of the blade to kick out, this lets you edge, select specific hairs, and have a great shave. It does however take some practice so that you don’t cut yourself.
Barber’s Notch – This point is very traditional and among one of my favorites. It is nice to look at and it gives the middle of the blade something interesting to set it apart.
Rounding The Toe – I give the option to round the toe for those that like having a rounded toe but prefer the look of another point.
-Custom Options-
Edge:
The cutting edge can come in all sorts of different lengths. Standard length is 3 inches, the mini monster has a smaller blade that makes it easier to travel with or store. 3 inches will work for essentially everyone, however, if you’d like a longer cutting edge or even shorter, I can customize it to whatever length you prefer.
Spine:
This is where a lot of fun can happen! I can do custom file work on the spine to make it stand out from the rest, you can have any sort of file work that you’d like, from dragon scales to the more traditional floral patterns. On my quarter inch steel I can also add a stamped engraving to the spine.
Tang:
The tang can have jimping added for grip, this makes the blade a bit easier to hold and is simple to instate. You can have both top and bottom jimping, or either or. I typically add 5 jimps in when requested, but, I can certainly add as little or many as you’d like.
Width:
If you’ll be using the razor as a daily shaver, I suggest a 6/8ths width to get under your nose and around your jaw easily. If you like heavier blades and prefer a larger feel, an 8/8th may be perfect. 7/8ths is right in the middle and allows a little more maneuverability than the 8/8ths. If you’d like an oversized razor, or smaller, I can do that as well.
Pivot Pin:
The pivot pin is what allows the blade its movement. I double pin and peen by hand. Brass is my go to for pin material. I have aluminum available as well.
Scales:
This is where the customization can really get crazy. I have over 50 different materials to choose from, from acrylic to wood and G10 your options are immense. We will talk about materials and design when you order. I can do custom shaping of the handle to give it more flair, make it look more bada**, or have a completely slick clean line that draws your eye along the entire razor.
That’s the basics of razor anatomy, if you want any aspect of your custom changed, I can do that.
As far as my set razors, the options are available on the product page. 🙂